The Clean Arc — Old Town to Letná

Arrive from Warsaw on EN10407 sleeper. Lockers level -1 under the main hall (card/coin, 120–200 CZK ~$5–9). Then walk or tram to Old Town for coffee + breakfast.

Riverside literary café across from the National Theatre — windows onto the Vltava and Castle. Opens 08:00 Sun. The full Bohemian breakfast; Kafka, Havel, and the Czech dissidents all drank here. Faster cortado option: EMA Espresso Bar (8 min from hl.n.).

Staroměstské náměstí — apostles parade on the hour, Old Town Hall tower dominates. Sunday before 10:00 is the only quiet window. By 10:30 the bridge and square are a crush. Týn's twin Gothic spires anchor the north side.

Fourteenth-century stone bridge, 30 Baroque statues (all replicas — originals in the National Museum). Cross before 10:30 or it's wall-to-wall. Street musicians, portrait artists, the Malá Strana towers ahead. Stop midway for the Castle + river view.

Baroque Library hall (viewed from the doorway, no interior entry), Meridian Hall, 68-m Astronomical Tower panorama. First two morning tours get 50% off — be on one of them. Guided-only, capacity-limited, 45 min.

Tram 22 from Malostranská up to Pražský hrad — the ride itself is a list item. Arrive ~11:45 for grounds + guard (changing at noon). Castle grounds open 09:00; interiors require a circuit ticket (~250–450 CZK). Plan ~2.5 hrs up here.

Sunday interior opens 12:00 sharp (morning Mass). Gothic nave, Mucha stained glass, St. Wenceslas Chapel covered in semi-precious stones. Be at the door at 11:55 — the line moves fast but builds.

Zlatá ulička — tiny 16th-c. pastel houses built into the castle wall. Kafka wrote in No. 22 in 1916–17. Included in the basic Castle circuit ticket. Medieval armoury upstairs on the walkway. ~30 min.

Walk down Nerudova into Malá Strana. Lokál (Míšeňská 12) — modern-traditional pub, fresh tank Pilsner Urquell, excellent svíčková / goulash. Or U Hrocha for the tinier, no-frills locals' version. The hearty lunch you wanted.

The ever-repainted Lennon Wall (free, 5 min, near the love-lock bridge). Then St. Nicholas Church — over-the-top high-Baroque interior, arguably Prague's finest (~100 CZK, 30 min). Then back across Charles Bridge toward Letná.

Bluff above the river — long communal tables, ~50 CZK ($2) pivo, the best skyline over Old Town and the bridges. Giant metronome on the old Stalin-statue plinth. Sunday afternoon fills with locals. ~15-min walk back to hl.n. when you need to head back.

Walk downhill from Letná ~15 min. Collect bag from level -1 locker. Platform by ~17:30 — last booked sleeper of the trip. Coach 17, Place 11, Flex Night · Comfort Plus · Double. 18:00 → Rotterdam. Bring snacks + water; breakfast ~06:30.